A circulator pump that runs nonstop on a Richmond gas boiler is almost always responding to a false call for heat somewhere in the zone wiring, not simple pump wear.
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Quick answer
A circulator pump that never shuts off, even with every thermostat satisfied, is usually being told to run by a stuck zone valve end switch or a welded relay contact on the zone control board rather than failing on its own. True pump wear tends to announce itself through noise or overheating rather than nonstop running. Either way, letting a pump run continuously when it shouldn't wastes electricity and shortens the life of its seal, so it's worth tracking down.
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In a correctly functioning system, a circulator pump only runs while its zone is actively calling for heat, shutting down once the thermostat is satisfied, sometimes after a brief built-in delay. A pump that stays warm and running around the clock — even on a mild day with every thermostat well below its set point — means something in the control chain is stuck in the "on" position: most often a zone valve whose end switch never disengages, or a relay on the zone control board whose contacts have welded shut after years of cycling.
Some older or simpler systems do use a dedicated system circulator that's designed to run continuously through the heating season, tied to an outdoor reset rather than individual thermostat calls — worth mentioning to a tech if that's how your system has always behaved, since it may be a design feature rather than a fault.
Because a good number of Richmond properties have had suites, additions, or renovated basements added over the years, it's common to find a second or third heating zone tied into the original boiler's electrical system well after the initial install. Those retrofit connections sometimes share a power feed with the original zone's pump rather than being wired independently, which can leave the original pump running whenever the newer zone calls — a wiring quirk that looks like a pump fault but is really a shared-circuit issue from the retrofit.
Richmond's soft, low-mineral reservoir water makes scale-driven impeller binding a less likely cause here than in a hard-water area, which again points suspicion more toward electrical control faults than mechanical fouling for this particular symptom.
Set every thermostat in the house a couple of degrees below the current room temperature and watch whether the pump ever stops. If it does, the pump was simply responding to an active call somewhere, and you've narrowed it down. If it keeps running regardless, note whether it's unusually noisy or hot to the touch, which is useful detail for the tech. Leave the pump housing, wiring, and zone control board to the professional.
| Observation | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Pump stops once every thermostat confirmed satisfied | Was simply responding to an active call |
| Pump keeps running, all thermostats satisfied, no unusual noise | Stuck zone valve or welded relay |
| Pump running with grinding or buzzing sound | Pump bearing or seal wear |
| Has always run continuously since you moved in | Possibly a dedicated system pump by design — confirm with a tech |
A stuck valve, welded relay, or crossed wiring is a targeted control repair, not a sign the boiler itself is failing. A genuinely worn pump is typically replaced on its own as a serviceable component. If constant running has coincided with rising gas bills or other symptoms, a broader system check is worthwhile; full boiler replacement, as a ballpark and not a quote, runs $7,500–$15,000+.
Safety note
If you ever smell gas (a rotten-egg odour) near the boiler, notice soot or a burnt smell with no clear source, or suspect carbon monoxide is entering the house, leave the home immediately and call FortisBC's emergency line at 1-800-663-9911 from outside. Do not try to relight a pilot, reset a control, or investigate a gas smell yourself.
Over time, yes — continuous running when it shouldn't be happening wears the pump's seal and bearings faster than normal cycling, and it also uses electricity unnecessarily, so it's worth having the cause diagnosed.
Yes, this is a common pattern in Richmond homes with a suite or addition added as a retrofit zone — if that zone's wiring shares a circuit with the original pump instead of being independently controlled, the original pump can end up running whenever the newer zone calls.
Some older or simpler hydronic systems use a dedicated system circulator paired with an outdoor-reset control that's meant to run continuously through the heating season. If your pump has always behaved this way rather than starting recently, mention that history to your tech.
No — that would also cut off heat to whatever zone is genuinely calling, and it doesn't address the underlying wiring or valve fault. Have the actual cause diagnosed instead of working around it.
Not directly, since the pump itself runs on electricity, not gas, but if a stuck zone valve is also causing the boiler to fire more than necessary to satisfy a false call, that can increase gas use as a side effect.
It varies by model and how hard it's been run, but pumps are a wear component that eventually need replacement regardless of the cause of this particular issue; a tech can assess yours based on noise, amp draw, and flow performance.
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